Paso Robles: Outstanding food scene for a small town
Two years ago I made a scouting trek through Paso Robles on a road trip that included stops in Carmel, Santa Barbara and Los Angeles. Compared to those places, the town seemed like a sleepy country cousin.
At that time, the restaurants seemed a little staid - even Artisan and Thomas Hill Organics, the two places that get the most publicity for their creative cooking and use of organic ingredients.
Yet, in a short time the situation has changed significantly, particularly for a town of fewer than 30,000.
Artisan has moved into new quarters with a handsome bar and a more modern decor that features recycled window frames cut into the wall between the kitchen and dining room, a nice alternative to the completely open kitchen.
In June, Fish Gaucho opened with a slick interior and a Baja-inspired menu, and last year Santos MacDonal, who owns the upscale Il Cortile, opened the more casual La Cosecha that taps into his Honduran heritage.
Paso Robles is also blessed with something not readily found in other Wine Country destinations: an unjaded, small-town quality that makes visitors feel appreciated. Waiters servicing outside tables will converse with visitors strolling by. When we walked in front of the Pony Club and took iPhone photos of the impressive stone building and patio, the manager came out and said, "Hey, what's with the photos?" and then smiled to show he was joking. The wine bar was closed, but he encouraged us to come back for a drink in the evening when it was open.
Yes,Oakley Wiretap, in the past few years things are looking up in Paso Robles. Plus, there are more food-centric businesses in the works, making me want to return.
Here's a selective rundown of the dining options in Paso Robles and surrounding areas. It's only the tip of what you'll find; there are noteworthy established places like Bistro Laurent, Il Cortile and Thompson's Organics, but the following spots top my list.
ArtisanArtisan has been in business since 2007 but moved to the new location a little more than a year ago. Chris Kobayashi, the chef, and his brother Michael source their products locally. It shows in the salads, whether it's a tailored blend of lettuce with a garlicky ranch dressing and Parmesan bread crumbs ($9) or a more complex combination with pickled beets ($11), lettuce in a creamy vinaigrette, shards of Parmesan and soft balls of warm goat cheese dusted in nuts and bread crumbs.
At lunch, the casual fare includes several sandwiches such as the meatball hero ($13), Cubano ($13) and turkey BLT ($14) with avocado. At night, Kobayashi offers boar tenderloin with fennel risotto ($32); a more classic chicken saltimbocca with mushrooms ($28); and cedar-planked shrimp with grits ($27).
Pizza, with a puffy, breadlike crust, is available at all times, although in my experience it's not the main strength of the kitchen.
843 12th St., Paso Robles; (805) 237-8084. . Lunch and dinner daily.
Fish GauchoOn a warm day - and at this time of year that's a daily occurrence - it feels like a cooling reprieve to head to this Mexican restaurant for a margarita, chips and snacks.
If you stop in during happy hour (3-5 p.m. weekdays) the Gaucho margarita is $5 (regularly $9), and there's even an excellent watermelon margarita ($10/$7 at happy hour). It has the flavor of the fruit but isn't masked with too much agave syrup.
It makes sense that the bartenders respect the spirit; the list contains more than 85, and includes flights of Tequila and Mezcal.
As for food, there are spicy jalapeño-glazed chicken wings ($13), the bright red sauce looking like Christmas what with the drizzle of poblano crema drizzled over the top. There's also a daily changing ceviche ($14) served with chips that would be better if they were thinner. In addition there's an excellent pork posole ($6.50/$15) and chicken poblano enchiladas ($16) with mild roasted tomato sauce.
The restaurant has the polished look of a place that could be a chain in the making.
1244 Park St., Paso Robles; (805) 239-3333. . Lunch and dinner daily.
La CosechaThis second restaurant from chef Santos MacDonal concentrates on the food of Spain and Latin America. His first is Il Cortile, which is good but has a more staid and expected Italian menu. From my experience at both places, it feels as if his heart is in this much more casual restaurant that offers outdoor seating and has windows that open onto the downtown street.
MacDonal is from Honduras, and one of the must-order items is the Honduran empanadas ($12), which are beautifully crisped, filled with beef and potatoes and topped with shredded lettuce, a slice of tomato and crumbles of soft cheese.
I was there during the World Cup when he offered a Brazilian stew in honor of the occasion; it's this type of dish that sets the restaurant apart. Another highlight is the paella of the day ($19 at lunch); on our visit it was bright yellow with turmeric and filled with plump shrimp, mussels and clams.
While the chef also offers some Italian specialities such as flatbread and chicken Parmesan with spaghetti ($14), the most interesting lunch items include braised and grilled pork spare ribs glazed with achiote honey ($13); roasted pork medallions with chile verde ($13); and chilaquiles with carnitas ($15).
835 12th St., Suite A, Paso Robles; (805) 237-0019. . Lunch and dinner daily.
Pony Club BarWhile there's a handsome zinc horseshoe bar inside the Hotel Cheval, the place to be this time of year is on the patio under the umbrella of what looks like a century-old oak tree.
It's a place you can while away hours, lulled by the breeze, soothed by the reasonably priced glasses of wine and stimulated by the live entertainment on Fridays through Sundays.
There are always featured wine flights, including one called Behind the Vines that showcases local producers. Recently it was Cass Winery; the Roussanne, Grenache and a Rhone blend was available for $14.
This isn't the place to have a full-blown dinner; the menu is limited to pates, dips, cheese and a few other snacks. But it's the ideal place to begin or end a relaxed evening.
1021 Pine St., Paso Robles; (866) 522-6999. . Open nightly; happy hour 5-7 p.m.
Cass HouseFew restaurants so dramatically juxtapose a historic inn and traditional dining room with a totally modern approach to food. Opposites magically attract in this case. It's one of those out-of-the-way places those of us who love food dream about, and in this case the dream is a reality.
Chef/owner Jensen Lorenzen takes local to an extreme, and with fewer than two dozen seats he's able to grow many products in the beds around the property to serve on his 14-course tasting menu. Here's how he describes his sourcing on the website: "There are times when our menu is vibrant and diverse; dishes are filled with the evidence of a bountiful spring harvest. If we have a large amount of produce ready to pull from our garden, our vegetable menu will be the star for the evening. During the winter months, we struggle to work with what we are afforded by our surroundings, and our menu develops a darker character."
The food is both enlightening and satisfying, starting with a shot of carrot ginger juice to begin the meal and the same ingredients used in a sweet gelee to end it. In between are such things as crisp house-baked cornmeal chips dotted with onion dip, arranged on a wood block; abalone fritters that look like river rocks, served on a bed of rocks; a broth of pea dashi with fresh brioche rolls; and a basil and pea risotto.
On our visit, the main course was a choice of braised lamb with rich soubise with the texture of whipped cream, or white salmon wrapped in seaweed, with the medallions served atop gnocchi.
The fixed-price menu is $85; wine pairings are an additional $40. It's an experience that stands up to the best in the Bay Area.
222 N. Ocean Ave., Cayucos; (805) 995-3669. . Dinner Thursday-Monday; starting in September, it's Friday-Sunday).
The RangeYou gotta love a place that calls the Wedge "The Original Man Salad." Iceberg lettuce from Salinas ($10) is doused in blue cheese dressing made with creme fraiche and stacked high with rings of red onions, cherry tomatoes, croutons and bacon.
The low-slung stucco building has an Old West vibe, with the head of a longhorn painted above the shiny copper door, horns extending the length of the stucco building. Inside, the door is lined with brown and white cowhide. Country album jackets provide the focal point of the walls.
Portions are hearty, as you'd expect, but it feels like an unlikely place to find such pristine local ingredients and wine list.
Aside from several excellent salads, the menu includes such items as crawfish cakes with pickled okra ($14) and beef carpaccio with greens, grana Parmesan, capers and Olea olive oil from nearby Templeton ($12).
Main courses include coffee-crusted rib eye with a Wild Turkey peppercorn cream sauce ($33) and roasted chicken breast ($22) that sits atop garlic mashed potatoes, surrounded by snap peas, cauliflower, yellow squash and carrots, and topped with a frizzle of fried potatoes and a generous sprig of rosemary.
Two things to remember: Bring cash, because it's a credit card-free environment, and no reservations are accepted.
22317 El Camino Real, Santa Margarita; (805) 438-4500. Dinner Tuesday-Sunday.
Michael Bauer is The San Francisco Chronicle restaurant critic. Find his blog at and his reviews on . E-mail: Twitter: